Food News - Restaurant News | Zagat Buzz

Live Blog: 30 Under 30 San Francisco Launch Party!

2012-02-22T21:21:00.000-05:00

Today, we launched our first-ever 30 Under 30 list in San Francisco, and you know what that means - it's time for a par-tay. We've set up shop at the Wo Hing General Store, and many of the honorees will be in the house, along with Tim and Nina Zagat to have a few drinks and bask in the glory of being one of the city's young up-and-comers. Stay tuned here for live updates for as long as the shin-dig lasts (or as long as we can still type before all that Champagne sets in).

6:30 PM: The doors are about to open, the calm before the storm. We aren't a certified meteorologist - can you call a room full of tipsy people a storm? It's a metaphor, people!

6:43 PM: Those of you following at home can also take a look at some chefs in action live on our Google Plus page. Freak. Out.

6:41 PM: The first drinks were officially spotted! We've got cocktails, beer, punch, wine - and for good reason. A lot of people on our list know a lot about booze. We've got mixologists, a vintner, and the country's first female "master" of the Cicerone program, which is like sommelier for beer. We played beer pong at our last 30 under 30 event, but figured she'd kick all of our butts this time.

7:03 PM: Well, that was fast. Full house! Enter your own storm metaphor here!

7:09 PM: Wo Hing is so new that it hasn't been officially rated in our current San Francisco guide, but we still sum it up for those who might be interested in popping by for a visit. Let's take a look at what the description says:

Proving you can indeed go home again, Charles Phan (Slanted Door) reinterprets Chinese street food at this casual new Mission entry set in his old Slanted Door space, where he's offering a midpriced street-inspired menu fashioned from locally sourced seasonal ingredients – think housemade noodles, rice porridge, Shanghai dumplings and stir-fries; the bi-level, mod-looking dining room is awash with color, courtesy of oversized paintings and red lighting shades that resemble upside-down woks, and there's additional seating on the mezzanine and sidewalk.

7:22 PM: And hip hop, the food don't stop - trays full of goodness are being passed around the room. We've spied some steamed shrimp dumplings and these vegetarian imperial rolls with soy dipping sauce. Yum. Well, at least we think yum. No one gave this lowly blogger a bite :-(.

7:38 PM: Look who's here - Tim and Nina Zagat! They flew in from New York to say some words about the young up and comers (who are also spread out across the house) - it's quite the trendy crowd that has taken over Wo Hing. Tim and Nina are looking pretty dapper themselves...

7:51 PM: Tim Zagat has taken the mike to give a speech recognizing the honorees. "We have confidence that these people will make the city a better place....it's not just the chefs, it's the people in the front of the house that make a restaurant run smoothly." They are announcing the nominees one by one. Nina asked everyone to hold the applause "so we can make this quick" and Tim added "and so you can get back to drinking again!"

8:03 PM: And the speech is over and the music resumes. O.M.G - the SOS Band, who were cool like, way before text abbreviations were. "Baby, we can do it..."

8:14 PM: And what live blog would be complete without a self portrait of the blogger? FYI: the kerchif and hat are only for parties, though they are kind of fun to wear.

8:25 PM: And the party is winding down a bit - we'd like to thank the honorees for coming out and having a few beverages (as if they needed any encouragement on that front), Tim and Nina for coming and waxing poetic about the hard workers in the industry and most of all, the SOS Band for reminding us that phrases like "LMFAO" and "ZOMG" may seem hip, but true coolness takes a lot more than just a silly stream of letters. A message to the future youngsters that may be part of 30 under 30 in the future: "Take Your Time (Do it Right)". Holla.

Haven Pizzeria Hits Bethesda

2012-02-22T18:43:00.001-05:00

By Olga Boikess

Haven, Bethesda's latest pizza parlor, dishes up New Haven-style crisp-crusted pies, with options including 'white clam,''tomato pie' and fennel sausage, plus housemade gelato for dessert. The stylish brick-trimmed setting is family-friendly and casual with roomy booths and a granite bar dispensing wine and beer and roomy booths (7137 Wisconsin Ave.; 301-664-9412)

Quote of the Day: Michael Pollan On Dining at French Laundry

2012-02-22T17:07:00.001-05:00

Michael Pollan; Photo by Ken Light

"I don’t know, it felt like work. But that’s not what food is for me, that idea of food as theater or entertainment. I just think keeping the conversation in the foreground and letting the food and drink serve that, rather than the other way around, is the way to go."

-Journalist, author and natural foods guru Michael Pollan on dining at French Laundry for his 50th birthday. [Denver Post]

Woman Sues Taco Bell Over Salmonella Poisoning; New York May Ban Sale of Shark Fin

2012-02-22T16:48:00.000-05:00

Image via Flickr/Civilian Scrabble

By Kelly Dobkin

An Oklahoma woman is suing Taco Bell claiming food she ate there gave her Salmonella poisoning. [FSN via HuffPo]

New York may be the next state to ban the sale of shark fin, a traditional ingredient in Chinese cuisine. [NYT]

And that pesky tainted cantaloupe has caused another death due to listeria. Yikes. [DP]

Check Out San Francisco's Rising Culinary Stars

2012-02-22T16:31:00.001-05:00

By James Mulcahy

Want to meet the culinary stars of the future? Today, we launched a roundup of 30 members of San Francisco's food industry. These folks are all under 30 years old - don't be surprised if you start seeing them pop up on television and in national news more and more, cause they are on the top of the Bay Area's restaurant scene. Click through to our San Francisco page here to see the slideshow and stay tuned for more roundups of the top culinary talent in the coming months.

If you're a fan of San Franciso's restaurant scene, our SF Survey is now live, so be sure to log on and vote for your favorites.

Beacon Hill Bistro Kicks Off Its Wine Series

2012-02-22T16:12:00.002-05:00

By Naomi Kooker

On Monday, February 27, Beacon Hill Bistro will kick off its Monday night winedinner series, featuring four wines from different wine regions around the world or aspecific varietal paired with four courses. The first of five dinners takes you to one of the largestwine production areas in the world, the Languedoc/Roussillon region, which stretchesfrom the Rhone River to the Spanish border. Other datesinclude March 12, “The many faces of Pinot Noir”; April 2, “Mountain Wines” - wines made from grapes grown at high altitudes, April 23: Chilean wines and May 7:Blind Tasting (7 PM; $60 per person, excluding tax and gratuity; 617-723-7575).

Ryan Skeen Out At Pera Restaurants

2012-02-22T15:57:00.001-05:00

Ryan Skeen in the kitchen of Pera SoHo

By James Mulcahy

Ryan Skeen was recently hired by the folks at Pera SoHo to launch the menu the new eatery, as well as make changes to the restaurant's sister location, Pera Mediterranean Brasserie in Midtown. Well, the chef, who has had a stream of short-lived jobs at New York restaurants, has parted ways with the eatery after a couple months at the helm.

Owner Burak Karacam released the following statement about the shake up: "The Pera organization and Ryan Skeen have chosen to pat ways as the result of disparate operational and culinary styles that made a continued association untenable to both parties. We wish Ryan well with his future endeavors." Guests should not notice any hiccups while dining at either establishment - the crew in the kitchen (a mixed bunch of American / Turkish chefs) has taken over, and will continue to churn out the restaurant's quality fare. If you hadn't had a chance to stop by, check out our video tour of Pera SoHo here.

5 Napkin Opens, Launches New Burgers, Near Union Square

2012-02-22T15:33:00.002-05:00

By James Mulcahy

5 Napkin Burger fans no longer have to travel uptown for their fix! The fourth New York City location of the upscale burger restaurant has just opened near Union Square. The 120-seat eatery will offer all of the favorites that carnivores have come to love at the other outposts, along with a few new meaty options for good measure. The three new burgers on this menu include an avocado ranch option that's topped with pepper-jack cheese and ranch dressing, a barbecue burger that's topped with 'cue sauce, green tomato pickles and cheddar and a mushroom blue burger topped with shiitake, blue cheese dressing and onions. The decor is reminiscent of the other locations (which, incidentally, are always packed) - while reps for the restaurant describe it as "butcher-shop chic" we'd call it a bistro for burgers, but hey - whatever works.

A few more new things are in store for this locale - there will be a large outdoor patio when the weather gets warm, accommodating an additional 64 seats. In a few weeks, the eatery will also get up and running with breakfast service, which will be a first for the chain. If you want to stop by for some burger action, the new 5 Napkin is now open at 150 East 14th Street (212-228-5500).

Exclusive or Not? Testing 7 New York Hot-Spots

2012-02-22T14:09:00.000-05:00

Is Crown all it's cracked up to be?

By James Mulcahy

Getting the seats filled in a restaurant (especially a spankin' new one) is all about building the buzz, and the busier the joint seems, the more people are jonesing to go. Last year, we took a look at some hot spots around town to see if they were actually exclusive or if it was all just hype. Well, it's time to run the test on a new crop of openings (and an old favorite or two). Click through the slideshow below to see if the buzzy eateries are tough to get into or just faking it.

30 Under 30: San Francisco's Hottest Up-and-Comers

2012-02-22T13:14:00.002-05:00

By Meesha Halm

Aside from our venerable culinary forefathers and mothers such as Alice Waters and Thomas Keller, the celebrity chefs dominating the current Greater Bay Area dining scene are a pretty young bunch. But last year’s millennial chefs better watch their backs: there’s a whole new crop of upstarts to watch. Click through the slideshow to read about our 30 most promising young restaurant industry folks under 30, and if you're familiar with their work, be sure to go vote in the SF Bay Area Restaurants survey!

Open Call: Should Restaurants Be Allowed To Ban Crying Children?

2012-02-22T12:47:00.003-05:00

Image via Flickr/Upsilon Andromedae

By Kelly Dobkin

We're taken a look at the issue of banning children from restaurants before, but very recently, a casual Atlanta-based restaurant called Grant Central Pizza decided that they've had enough of crying children disturbing their customers, so they decided to post a sign outside that reads:

Dear all present and future patrons: GCP is proud of its reputation as a family restaurant, a title that we will work to keep. Unfortunately a number of our diners have posted unpleasant experiences because of crying and unsupervised children. To ensure that all diners have an enjoyable lunch or dinner with us we respectfully ask that parents tend to their crying tots outside.

News of the sign has garnered national attention and both positive and negative reactions from outraged parents and fans of the ban respectively. Upon learning of the news, funnyman Bill Maher tweeted: "Atlanta restaurant is tossing out crying children - begs the question, Can a restaurant win a Nobel Prize?"

Do you think a restaurant has the right to ban crying children? Let us know in the comments.

Controversial Restaurant Policies: When Should The Table Be Cleared?

2012-02-22T11:23:00.000-05:00

By James Mulcahy and Kelly Dobkin

Many times, the difference between an excellent dining experience and a certified disaster comes down to the small stuff. And a lot of those little details are left up to the server. How to approach the table? What's the line between being too aggressive and not paying enough attention? This week, our two editors sweat the small stuff, sussing out the best way for restaurant staff to clear tables. Is it more annoying to have them constantly swiping plates, or to have dirty flatware piling up while the staff waits for everyone to finish. Check out the debate below:

James: When I was out the other night - I noticed a problem that reminded me of your complaint about the overzealous wine pours trend. Overzealous table clearing.

Kelly: Lol. What do you mean?

James: Everytime anyone at the table finished anything, the service staff would swoop in and take their share plates / silverware.They should have waited until everyone was finished....

Kelly: So? It's better that way. I get grossed out staring at my dirty plate for 20 minutes.

James: But then they end up swooping in every three seconds - besides, you shouldn't finish 20 minutes before everyone when you're eating.

Kelly: So you propose they wait until everyone is finished to clear? Very proper of you. Sorry that's a little too "Downton Abbey" old-school for me.Basically, you're Lady Mary.

James: They bring out all the dishes together - it creates a feeling of community at the table. They should clear them all together. When she's dining with Lord Grantham and Granny, they staff isn't lurking around the table looking for slightly dirty cutlery. I hate seeing them doing their vulture-like dance.

Kelly: OMG - you're officially OCD.

James: And then, when they start to clear and one person is left with their dish, the "are you still working on that" brigade starts.

Kelly: Honestly never even notice when they do that or not. Also, tables must be turned, my friend. This you know.

James: Yeah, but they should be turned in an orderly way. It's like, the less dishes on the table, the more people come up to you and try to clear it.

Kelly: OK, so before each meal starts you can have a one-on-one with the bussers to let them know your feelings about proper clearing policy.

James: You may be onto something...

Guest Chef Collaborate With Atul Kochhar at Benares

2012-02-22T11:09:00.003-05:00

Benares Bar

By Claire Coleman

As if one brilliant chef in a restaurant at one time wasn't enough, Atul Kochhar has decided to join forces with some of his fellow brilliant chefs to create a series of fusion menus that will be served at the bar at his Mayfair spot Benares. First up is Anna Hansen of The Modern Pantry from February 21-March 5, and then from March 20-April 2, he will be joined by Richard Corrigan of Corrigan’s.

After that its David Thompson of Nahm from April 16-29 and Nigel Haworth of Lancashire's Northcote from May 3-16. Each chef will work closely with Atul to prepare a menu of small plates that cleverly blends the flavours and styles of Benares with their own. The complete menu will comprise 12 dishes designed to share (with a suggested three dishes priced at £21 per person).

With such disparate styles on offer, this could be an interesting experiment...

The Gold Coast's 5 Best Restaurants

2012-02-22T10:59:00.001-05:00

Café Spiaggia

With the opening of Allium, the Gold Coast gets one more serious dining destination. But who is its biggest competition in the neighborhood ratings-wise? Click through the slideshow to see the top scorers for Food, as voted on by you, and be sure to let us know your thoughts in the comments.

The Best Thing We Ate Last Night: Park Tavern's Lobster Bisque

2012-02-22T10:41:00.000-05:00

By James Mulcahy

This week, we're in San Francisco for the launch of that city's 30-Under-30 list. Of course, we had to use the shindig as an excuse to try all the dining that the town has to offer. In a city known for its seafood (so far, we've seen oysters pretty much, um, everywhere), it's hard to pick favorites, especially with a dish so standard as lobster bisque. When we stopped into Park Tavern on a blustery evening, we were just looking for a little comfort and warmth in a bowl of their bisque. Instead, we quickly understood why the eatery was shortlisted by the James Beard Foudation in the "Best New Restaurants" category.

The soup wasn't as creamy as man of the other lobster soups we encountered. Silky smooth and full of generous chunks of the crusteacean, it was, to put it simply, mind blowing, somehow managing to step right up to the line of being too salty without going over it - another dash would have destroyed the balance. A large stick of bread rested on top of the plate - good thing, because there was no way that we were letting a single dollop of this stuff go to waste. Looking around the restaurant, we noticed gigantic bowls of bisque on many tables, so the word is clearly out.

They say that a good dish make you sing, but we were silent as we slurped it up. Well, we did say one thing to our dining companion: "We're sorry, we just can't concentrate on anything other than how good this soup is."

Which U.S. City Has the Hottest Food-Truck Scene?

2012-02-22T09:30:00.000-05:00

Portland; Image via Flickr/star5112

By Lauren Bloomberg

It’s become a phenomenon - food served from roving street vendors whose every stop and turn are tracked by websites and promoted through Twitter. Their lines can run city blocks and turn an average gourmand into an obsessed bite-searcher. The food-truck scene is different in every city. In Chicago, trucks are illegal, and prospective vendors have to find loopholes to run the town. However, in Boston, they’re welcomed with open arms. New York City’s cops spend taxpayers' bucks chasing around illegally parked outposts.

With low overhead and higher margins than traditional restaurants, it seems these mobiles are here to stay. Whether it’s Chicago’s rogue meatloaf truck or Cali’s fish tacos, there’s a little sumthin’ sumthin’ for everyone. Which is the best food truck city, however? That’s for y’all to decide. Leave ‘em in the comments.

NY Times Gives Shake Shack One Star

2012-02-22T09:15:00.000-05:00

By James Mulcahy

Whether you agree or disagree with the fact that newly minted NY Times restaurant critic Pete Wells chose to devote a full review to Shake Shack was at least pretty entertaining. The burger is the only food to make both our "Most Overrated New York Dishes" and our "Iconic New York Dishes" lists, so it of course provokes its share of controversy. Wells likes the burger on occasion, but slams the fast-food joint for it's inconsistency. The choice quote of the piece: "How the burger could change lives I never divined, but on occasion it was magnificent, as beefy and flavorful as the outer quarter-inch of a Peter Luger porterhouse. More often, though, the meat was cooked to the color of wet newsprint, inside and out, and salted so meekly that eating it was as satisfying as hearing a friend talk about a burger his cousin ate."

And the fries? Well, he's not too nice to them, saying you can get better golden brown spuds "pretty much anywhere." Read the full review here.

British Woman Eats Only Cheese Pizza For 31 Years; White Castle Wine Pairings

2012-02-22T09:00:00.000-05:00

Image via Flickr/chapstickaddict

By Kelly Dobkin

Australian Man Breaks the Record For World's Largest Stack of Pancakes [ABC Aus]
Atlanta Restaurant Enacts Ban On Crying Children [AJC via HuffPo]
White Castle Wine Pairings [WSJ]
Repulsive-Sounding Foods (That Are Delicious) [HuffPo]
How Waiters Read Your Table [WSJ]
Woman Eats Only Plain Cheese Pizza For 31 Years [HuffPo]

5 Best Italian Restaurants in London

2012-02-21T18:34:00.000-05:00

Pasta at Zafferano

Italian-loving Londoners will soon have a new pasta place in the cards from March in the form of Mayfair's Cotidie. That said, it's going to have to go some to beat London's current top Italian eateries. Whether you're after country-style rustic fare or a sleek and stylish modern take on the Boot, there are options aplenty. Below are London's top five Italian restaurants according to the surveyors who contributed to our 2012 guide, but do you agree? Whatever your top spots, the only way to give them the kudos they deserve is by voting in this year's survey. Capisce? Click here to find out more about the survey and to vote!

Quote of the Day: LA Chef Reflects On Wanting To Punch Rocco DiSpirito In the Face

2012-02-21T17:36:00.000-05:00

Chef Eric Greenspan of The Foundry on Melrose, LA

"Even Rocco DiSpirito - who I hate to death, I hate him - he knows that I hate him, and he hates me. When he was chef at Union Pacific...it was the hardest place I worked in my life, and I hated working for the guy. I wanted to punch him in the face every day...I wound up walking out, but the flair that he had in his food really taught me a lot at a young age...As much as I hate the guy, that was a great mentor."

-Chef Eric Greenspan of The Foundry on Melrose in LA shares his memories of working with celeb chef Rocco DiSpirito. [Food GPS]

Masten Lake Bites the Dust, Drama at MPD

2012-02-21T17:23:00.000-05:00

By James Mulcahy

Masten Lake in Williamsburg has closed after about seven months in business today, according to Eater. The Bedford Avenue eatery gained some good buzz in foodie circles, but apparently that was not enough to save it in this restaurant-stacked hood. The management still has control of the space, but there's no word on if they will make another go with a new eatery at the space.

Over in the Meatpacking District, it seems like a little drama has hit the restaurant MPD. A lawsuit over the MPD brand between partners in the restaurant has led Daniel and David Koch to walk away from the eatery, which has been operating under the same name since their departure. The bros are suing for money that's allegedly owed to them, and they have released the following statement: "While we have enjoyed our time at 73 Gansevoort, Gans-Mex, LLC and Ginza Project, LLC have made it impossible for us to operate our restaurant, MPD, at that location at this time. We will announce in the near future a new venue, where we hope to continue the laughs and make new memories together with our family, you."

LA Dining Deals and Events for February 21-26

2012-02-21T16:31:00.004-05:00

Walter Manzke will be at Short Order this week.

By Merrill Shindler

Tuesday
It's Fat Tuesday - Mardi Gras - and they're celebrating at Wood & Vine in Hollywood with an à la carte menu of crawfish boil, gumbo, jambalaya and lobster étouffée, with sazeracs and hurricanes to quench your thirst and Abita beer on tap. And they're throwing their 23rd annual Mardi Gras party at the Original Farmer’s Market (6333 W. Third St.; 323-933-9211), where the Gumbo Pot restaurant is where you go for jambalaya and gumbo, the Market is festooned in green, purple and gold, and filled with Cajun and Zydeco bands.

Wednesday
Starting tonight the Next Door Lounge in Hollywood is kicking off a series of Whiskey Wednesdays, with whiskey and small dish pairings served from 8:30 to 10 PM, built around a weekly selection of four libations. It kicks off with "Whiskeys of the World" and continues in future weeks with "North American Whiskeys," "Blended Scotches" and "Single Malt Scotches." The cost is $30 per person, which includes a commentary by a Master of Whiskey. And for those not ready to go home, the outdoor cigar patio opens at 10 PM. Over at Mezze, chef Micah Wexler is paired with Ben Weiss of The Bruery to create a four-courser with limited edition beers to match dishes like baby yellowtail crudo, duck galantine and veal dumplings in beer broth (begins at 7:30 PM, $85 per person; 323-465-5505).

Thursday
It's Morso della Bestia ("Bite of the Beast") time at Locanda del Lago, with this month's culinary critter a Muscovy duck, served in five courses, including an antipasto of housemade duck pate, a primo of duck and farro soup, a pasta of duck ravioli and a main course of roasted duck breast with espresso sauce, plus almond custard brûlée for dessert (starts at 7 PM; $54 per person, $70 with unlimited liters of house red and white; 310-451-3525).

Friday
Those in the mood to drive out to La Quinta Resort & Club on the eastern edge of the Coachella Valley can reward themselves with a James Beard Celebrity Chef's Night out BBQ and Wine Tasting from 6:30 to 9 PM, with dishes prepared by chefs Jimmy Schmidt, Stephan Pyles and Nancy Silverton, who'll join together to prepare mozza caprese, 24-hour pork belly with foie gras and pan-seared coriander crusted sea scallops, with other dishes prepared by the resort's chef ($95 per person, includes wine; 760-564-4111).

Saturday
Test Kitchen returns for one night only - five chefs and four mixologists gather for an evening of Serious Burgers and Cocktails at Short Order in the Original Farmers Market, with the guest chefs including Kris Morningstar (of Ray's & Stark Bar), Adam Horton (of Raphael) and the ubiquitous Walter Manzke; the burgers and sides are offered a la carte from 9 PM to 1 AM, priced at $14 to $18 for the burgers, and $5 to $12 for the sides. It's a rare chance to try Manzke's Vietnamese pork burger and Horton's Korean BBQ burger among others (323-761-7970).

Sunday
It's the 84th Annual Academy Awards, a night when a large segment of the local population stays home to watch. But it's also a great night to score a reservation at any number of restaurants that are hard to get into. Consider going to Gjelina, Sunny Spot, Pizzeria Mozza, Matsuhisa or Campanile, among others that are normally fully committed.

Last Minute Plans for Mardi Gras!

2012-02-21T16:13:00.000-05:00

By James Mulcahy

It's. Almost. Time. Today is Fat Tuesday, in case no one at your office broke out the beads. Well, that should change come 5 PM, when bars and restaurants around town break out the booze for a pre-lent bacchanal. Here are a few spots to hit up if you are fixin' to get your drink on after work.

Delta Grill: In Hell's Kitchen, this cajun joint is pulling out all the stops. A $25 entry fee gets you a free hurricane, all you can eat from a New Orlean's inspired buffet and entertainment from a live blue grass band (212-956-0934).

Go Burger: This Upper East Side Burger joint will dish out boozy "king cake shakes" for $12 a pop. If you want one sans bourbon, you can get it for $8. Pair it with the special oyster po' boy if you want to walk away feeling sufficiently fat (212-988-9822).

Great Jones Cafe: This casual cajun promises down home cooking, a packed house and plenty of booze starting at 6 PM and going til late.

The Stag's Head: This brew-centric bar in Midtown East (one of our favorites) will pair nine specially chosen drafts of Abita (from Louisiana, natch) with a special menu of goodies like fried green tomatoes and jambalaya (212-888-2453).

Chicago Restaurant Week Is Happening Now

2012-02-21T15:55:00.003-05:00

Tavernita's Ryan Poli

By Jennifer Olvera

Have you jumped on the Chicago Restaurant Week bandwagon? It’s not too late! Running through February 26, the event features over 200 participating restaurants, with $22 lunch deals and $33 or $44 set-price dinner menus - in both cases, plus beverages, taxes and gratuities. It’s as good a time as any to try out some of the city’s most touted tables, like Tavernita in River North, where the dinner menu includes to en pan choices (the escalivada rocks!), two small plates (yum, to the artichoke salad) and one large plate (Wagyu-pork meatballs bathed in hazelnut romesco are definitely the way to go; 312-274-1111). At Tony Mantuano’s Bar Toma in the Gold Coast, a lunch menu includes memorable charred carrots, a pizza and made-in-house gelato or sorbet (312-266-3110). Making the choice even harder is the fact that GT Fish & Oyster in River North is in on the game - but during lunch only as well (312-929-3501).

New BYO Russet Brings Farm-to-Table to Spruce Street

2012-02-21T15:26:00.003-05:00

Kristin and Andrew Wood

Story and Photos by Danya Henninger

The location of Russet - the debut restaurant from Andrew and Kristin Wood - was no accident. A two-year search for the perfect spot was rewarded when Ernesto Salandria decided to shutter 19-year-old BYO Ernesto’s 1521 Cafe, and instead find the right kind of restaurateur to take it over. With their true farm-to-table philosophy and down-to-earth integrity, the Woods fit the bill, and last week they opened Russet in the Spruce Street brick and sandstone townhome, a block west of Broad.

Prior to his most recent stint at Old City’s Fork, Andrew refined his culinary talents in acclaimed kitchens across the country, such as Napa Valley’s Terra and San Francisco’s Quince. Russet’s food will combine the California aesthetic of natural flavors and seasonal ingredients with house-cured meats that rely on Wood’s charcuterie skills. “The menu will change absolutely every week, depending on what’s fresh,” Wood says, excited for the challenge. “You’d be surprised how much is available, even during harsh Pennsylvania winters. During the bountiful seasons, we’ll be making our own preserves to extend those flavors throughout the year.”

Split simply into first and second courses, the menu features heritage fowl and game, Lancaster County eggs and cheeses and vegetables straight from local farms. Appetizers like beef carpaccio with celery-parsley salad and handmade ricotta raviolo with mushroom duxelles run $8-$12, while entrees such as poached golden tilefish or short rib and pork belly pot-au-feu fall in the $20-$28 range. Though a BYO, Russet stocks an impressive collection of glassware, and each week’s changing bill of fare includes suggestions for wine pairing.

Kristin Wood was the pastry chef at beloved James, formerly in Bella Vista, and will be making an assortment of creative desserts - Andrew’s favorite is the pine nut-olive oil cake, served with poached sundried cherries and rosemary ice cream - as well as the house breads. She will also call on her experience as cheesemonger at Dean & Deluca to populate the cheese program, a highlight of the weekend brunch menu, which also features rustic omelets and creative plates like rabbit and bacon pâté. “I’m not into tweaking my compositions,” notes Andrew. “My food is made from the best ingredients, so when it’s placed simply on a plate and served hot, it’s going to please.”

Small Victorian embellishments like a carved archway dot the main dining space, left over from the room’s former life as a 19th-century family’s parlor. These trimmings add a touch of elegance to the otherwise pastoral decor. Slab tables were custom-made from reclaimed barn wood; the floor is covered in environmentally friendly marmoleum; and the Woods hand-upholstered the cushioned chairs and banquettes that line the walls. Antique lamp fixtures on cream- and rust-colored walls are surrounded by mini tableaus of old-fashioned photographs that feature Andrew and Kristin’s ancestors, many of whom were also in the restaurant business.

As the year progresses, a second dining room at the back of the house will be available for private dining events, and outdoor seating will fill the Wisteria trellised backyard patio. Dinner is served 5:30-10:30 PM, Tuesday-Sunday, with weekend brunch offered from 10 AM-2 PM. Weekday lunch service will be introduced soon, and the couple also plans a monthly “date night” (inspired by their own four-year-old son), during which time they’ll transform the back room into a supervised play area so parents can enjoy a peaceful dinner on their own.

1521 Spruce St.; 215-546-1521