7/08/2013 03:08:00 PM

Best Thing We Ate This Weekend: Pasta at BoccaLupo in Atlanta

BoccaLupo pasta sauces
When we visited our Atlanta friends over Fourth of July, they couldn’t wait to take us to BoccaLupo, chef/owner Bruce Logue’s happening, new Italian restaurant. The Georgia native is known for his artisanal pastas, which he perfected in Italy and at Mario Batali’s Babbo in NYC. At his intimate, rustic/mod Inman Park osteria, farm-fresh ingredients (many grown in the lot behind the restaurant) enhance classic preparations on an affordable menu that offers antipasti, pasta, "not pasta" and "after pasta" choices.

When we entered maitre d’ Geoff Shyatt settled us into a corner table and suggested the The Tourist cocktail, a refreshing concoction of gin, antica formula, Aperol, prosecco and orange bitters. As far as food, we began with Logue’s popular Iowa prosciutto piadina, served with housemade ricotta and a pineapple mostarda that we kept nibbling on throughout the meal. A special of buttery, house cured salmon, with crispy snippets of fried rice gnocchi, mache and capers was quickly dispatched.

The three luscious pasta dishes we ordered included a bucatini with smoked bacon, red onion, thick pomodoro and pecorino, which proved to be the perfect blend of texture, meaty bite and flavorful, fruity tomato. An egg yolk tagliatelle with wild mushrooms and garlic scapes was rich tasting, but not at all cloying. Likewise, ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta, tossed in a brown butter reduction and topped with sweet corn, had us going back for yet another bite.

We were too full to attempt such tempting "not pasta" choices as duck spedini and calamari in tomato broda, but we had to try one his luscious sounding desserts. An ethereally, light panna cotta with huckleberry sauce got a wonderfully, unexpected, kick from tiny, squid ink crumbles. We look forward to visiting our friends again - and when we do, a meal at BoccaLupo is a must (753 Edgewood Ave NE, Atlanta, GA; 404-577-2332).


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