Adam Sobel, the new executive chef at RN74, won the prestigious Grand Cochon national championship in Aspen just over a week ago for his deft use of a whole hog. His golden piggie trophy is currently to be found glimmering in the restaurant's dining room, where a couple of his fellow competitors happened to be dining last night. If you want to check out his porcine skills, head straight for the heritage pork loin and crispy belly, served with a pork crepinette, a butter pecan pain perdu that could pass for dessert and two glorious stone fruit accompaniments: a poached apricot half and a warm bacon cherry sauce. It's decadent yet refined, a lovely example of what this new chef is doing for RN74. Sobel is launching a special pork version of RN74's Sunday Supper special starting this weekend ($39 for three courses). He says he will write the menu spontaneously every week, with one overarching rule: "Pig in everything!"