5/09/2013 10:46:00 AM

Best Thing We Ate Last Night: Dessert at Carbone

Carrot cake, blackout cake, and lemon cheesecake at Carbone (Photo: Tamara Palmer)
By Tamara Palmer
It's not easy to reach the dessert point at Carbone, but it's a more than worthwhile challenge to try. Pastry chef Dana Kovalsky, who previously dazzled in the kitchen at sister restaurant Torrisi Italian Specialties, says she's on a mission to make classic desserts even better, and her menu is almost universally approachable. The carrot cake has been declared an early star for its impossible richness and exquisite plating, which has the appearance of a cross-section of a veggie volcano, but she has also successfully elevated the notions of blackout cake, lemon cheesecake and tiramisu - the latter anchored by a ladyfinger-like financier on top. The banana split looks modest enough as sundaes go, with three diminutive scoops (chocolate, strawberry and vanilla), but dig to the bottom of it all and there's banana bread gold, studded with crunchy cacao nibs. More diners would probably leave room for dessert if they knew the extent of Kovalsky's gifted abilities.


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