We like Jolly Ranchers and we're into ahi tuna, but somehow combining both? Seems like a disaster waiting to happen. Thankfully not so with the "Ranchers" at L&W Oyster Co. Pieces of ahi tuna are covered in dough, frozen and then quickly fried to produce an appetizer that creatively resembles the namesake candy. While the dough is crispy and cooked on the outside, the fish inside remains raw offering a nice textural balance and an alternative to classic tempura. Uni mustard and soy mint sauces are provided on the side, adding an extra hit of flavor ($15; 212-203-7772).