4/10/2013 03:03:00 PM

The Hipster Meets Barbecue Trend: Friend or Foe?

Ribs from Smitty's, in Lockhart
Before the Austin barbecue scene blossomed, you used to have to drive out to the Hill Country, Lockhart or Taylor to find good fatty brisket. Now, thank goodness, it’s just a five-hour wait at Franklin or LA Barbecue away. Institutions like Texas Monthly have even acknowledged this by hiring a full-time barbecue editor, Daniel Vaughn, formerly of the Full Custom Barbecue blog.

But is this resurgence a good thing? This week the Texas BBQ Posse blog labels many of the young pitmasters as (gasp) hipsters who wear (double gasp) glasses and want to use (triple gasp) real firewood in their pits.
The blog debates this issue and others, highlighting Aaron Franklin of Franklin Barbecue and John Lewis of LA Barbecue (and formerly of Franklin). It mentions Lewis’ three pet pigs and that he almost moved to Napa Valley to serve “great barbecue with great California cabernet.” Also mentioned is Lance Kirpatrick from Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew.

We’re not sure if these are supposed to be diamonds or daggers. As long as the brisket’s good, does it matter what bands the pitmaster listens to?

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