There are few places you will dine in NYC where an Italian maitre d' kisses your hand as you sit down to the table (if you're a girl, anyway), causing momentary disorientation. There's even fewer places to eat on N. 7th and Berry where feel like you're actually not in Williamsburg at all, more like you've just stepped into an entirely different dimension. Roman transplant Antica Pesa is the only such joint around - the original location in Rome dates back to 1922 but the Brooklyn outpost is a giant cozy space whose decor is as modern as can be - but its service is charmingly old-school. (Both are known for their celebrity hotspot status.) The menu is made up of simple salads, pastas and mains from which we selected the lamb lasagna, the fried zucchini and artichoke salad and the pecorino and parmigiano ravioli in artichoke broth. The latter dish was the real standout - creamy yet subtle and light - it was the perfect gateway between Brooklyn and La Dolce Vita.