4/18/2013 10:42:00 AM

Sugar High: Tasting the 36-Ounce Lollipop Martini at Sugar Factory

"It smells like a slinky in here," our dining companion said as we entered the new Meatpacking District restaurant Sugar Factory American Brasserie, a Vegas import that did have a wiff of new-toy smell on its first week in business. There's a candy shop up front where children (or drunk adults/reality show stars) can load up on bags of electric blue gummy spaghetti or neon malt balls, but we were here with a specific mission: to try the 36-ounce goblet cocktails that are the restaurant's signature beverage.

The vast cocktail list contains eight of these big boys, which the bartender told us was "equivalent to nine or ten martinis" (though he assured us that the actual alcohol content was about equal to "two and a half"). We narrowed it down to the Lollipop Passion, a mix of lemon, pineapple, coconut and the aforementioned candy and The White Gummi, a gummy-worm infused drink that lacked an ingredient list but was promoted as such: "It will be as much fun to drink as it is to fish out the worms."

We asked the bartender for help deciding. "Well, I like the gummi because it's so yummy. And I like the lollipop passion because it has lollipops." Hmmm. We went for the latter, for no particular reason other then the fact that a decision had to be made before we ended up spending our entire night paralyzed by disbelief.

The drink comes with a show - the bartender puts a few dry ice chips in the bottom of the goblet so it smokes and bubbles Harry Potter style. Once the mist died down, our companion took the first sip. Her takeaway: "It's actually good!" A sip confirmed that it was sweet but not cripplingly sweet - it tasted somewhere between a Capri Sun, a half-consumed lifesaver and a dried pineapple. Bonus points to the bar for using the right kind of perfectly square cocktail ice; if these folks can do it other venues really have no excuse.

Who will order this? We have no idea - but there were a few goblets on the tables throughout the room of this eatery, which is surprisingly swank and fits right into the shiny Meatpacking ethos (save the rubber ducky on the hostess stand). As for the candy, by the time we finished our drink the coloring had melted off of the long, cylindrical lollipop, leaving it to resemble a white...er....piece of asparagus, but the candy bracelet provided a nice takeaway (and some sustenance throughout the rest of the evening). Next time, it's onto the normal beverage list. How can we not order a drink dubbed The Sexual Chocolate?

Sugar Factory is now open at 46 Gansevoort St.

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