4/17/2013 02:30:00 PM

Best Thing We Ate Yesterday: Egg Skillets at Square One Dining

Weekend lines are generally ridiculous at Square One Dining, the neighborhood charmer set in the shadow of the big blue Scientology building on the eastern border of Hollywood. But slip in for breakfast during the week and you'll find a relaxed staff - the host, while rolling silverware, simply told us to "sit wherever" - lots of space on the sunny patio and good wait times for your food. All of that, plus a strong cold-pressed coffee, omelets stuffed with chunks of artisanal bacon and bowls of fresh fruit, makes for a fine late-morning breakfast. Some of the specials can be tantalizing, like the breakfast flatbread topped with eggs and seasonal vegetables, but the little cast-iron skillet filled with grits, collard greens, mushrooms, lots of Gruyere cheese and eggs (ours were over-easy before we cut into them) gets us every time. It hits all the right notes and shouldn't be reserved for breakfast; we'd eat it any time of day.


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