4/02/2013 12:18:00 PM

Best Thing We Ate This Weekend: Wok-Fried Dungeness Crab at R&G Lounge

With a hankering for Chinese food and the demise of Charles Phan's Wo Hing General Store nearby our home, we found ourselves wending through the back alleys of Chinatown to get our fix. We settled into the basement dining room at R&G Lounge for an early supper (just before the crowds descended) and went straight for the specialty of the house –still-swimming seafood. That includes salt-and-pepper calamari, a groaning plate of seafood chow mein and the piece de resistance – whole Dungeness crab wok-fried and slathered in a ginger and scallion sauce ($38, based on weight and market price).

The delicately fragrant flavor of the the sauce (studded with spicy slices of fried ginger) brings out the sweetness of the crabmeat, rather than overpower it. And unlike at other Asian crab joints, the crab is fresh and you don’t end up with a pile of coagulated butter once it cools down. You also won’t get offered plastic bibs but the staff does provide wet wipes at the end of what amounts to quite a messy yet satisfying meal.

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