Uncle Boons, a new Thai spot in Nolita from Per Se vets, are 100% safe to eat. We didn’t need any further encouragement to order the $14 dish, best shared as an appetizer. The tails remind us of fish lollipops; after spritzing with charred lime, just pick them up by the very end, dunk them into the acidic, spicy sauce and pop ‘em into your mouth. The tender meat practically flakes off the bone itself, and after the first bite, it becomes a rush to eat more before anyone else at the table finishes them off. Pair these lollis with the restaurant's slushie beer, and you’ve got the start of a fantastic meal.