Jeepney and Pig & Khao, he doesn't love what's going on at Chez Sardine, where that sort of fare for the bleary eyed is paired with what Wells terms "fat-on-fat cuisine" from chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly. The critic calls the result "friendly and demented" and while he finds a few dishes to like (fish head = yes, please) he comes away thinking that the selection is a little too hit-or-miss.
His takeaway: "There are, in fact, very few ways to put together a balanced meal at Chez Sardine. This may be the common curse shared by fat-on-fat cuisine, Asian stoner food and small-plates dining: When diners expect to be wowed by every bite, why would chefs waste their time on dishes that are meant to be supporting players?" Read the full review here.