At the end of a jammed, nerve-grating workday, is there any better way to restore your humanity than with the classic triple threat of pasta with meat sauce, red wine and some old-fashioned, non-iPhone-related facetime with a close friend? Not really, according to our Italian food survey, but after a midweek stop at West Village darling Rosemary’s, we think the new formula for eating your bliss deserves an upgrade to something cooler - for instance, Rosemary’s quirk-ified linguine with preserved lemons, pickled chili and fresh Parm. It’s creamy, subtly hot, a little tart, firmly salty, a touch sweet, and somehow just what you needed. And that, on a plate, is your new-school Italian comfort food. While you’re at it, do yourself the favor of swapping out that tired old Pinot Nero for Prosecco, which Rosemary’s brilliantly offers on tap. The best friend can stay.