Much has been made of the duck a l'orange and lobster thermidor at NoHo newcomer Le Philosophe, but when we went, our favorite dish of the night was actually the garganelli pasta. The noodles are made in house, which is impressive considering how thin, uniform and expertly shaped each were. The accompanying ingredients are simple, but come together to create an earthy, satisfying dish. The mushroom ragout gives it a hearty flavor, while the hazelnuts and spinach provide pleasant contrasting textures. It's an example of a vegetarian dish where you don't feel like you're missing out on anything ($18; 212-388-0038).