We like food with a good story behind it. We like food even more when that story dates back to the 1890s in New Orleans. New on the menu at Big Jones are sourdough-like fritters called calas, a predecessor to the beignet. According to Jessica Harris' book, High on the Hog: A Culinary Journey from Africa to America, they were sold on the streets by slaves for extra money after their work for the day was done. The roots of this fried dough can be traced back to West Africa where leftover rice was fermented, turned into dough and fried. The version at Big Jones undergoes a series of fermentations before being deep-fried, dusted with powdered sugar and served with bitter chocolate sauce as well as housemade dulce de leche. Read more about this unique dish on Restaurant Intelligence Agency or try some in Andersonville for $7 (773-275-5725).