2/22/2013 11:14:00 AM

John Mueller Is Back In Business at the John Muller Meat Co.

Barbecue is deceptively simple on many levels. You have your brisket, your ribs, your sausage—how much could there be to it? But as any good Texan knows, so much depends on the right rub and the magic pitmaster touch. Similarly, the politics behind barbecue aren’t so straightforward.

Take John Mueller, Louis Mueller’s grandson and the rising and falling star of the Austin barbecue scene for many years now. When he opened his JMueller BBQ trailer on South First in October 2011, years after his Manor Road location had shuttered, meat eaters rejoiced. But family drama forced him out of the business just a year later, in October 2012, when his sister LeAnne and pitmaster John Lewis (previously of Franklin Barbecue—even more drama!) took over, leaving fans in a frenzy.

Until now.

Mueller has turned a new leaf (again) at his new John Mueller Meat Co., on East Sixth Street, which opens this Saturday, February 25 at 10:30 a.m. sharp. That's tomorrow! We sampled some (ok, all) of the goodies on hand at the soft opening on Saturday, Feb. 16 and want to give you the scoop.

The Space: The East Side trailer is much more than a food truck. The area is sectioned off, covered and populated with picnic tables. John wrote the homey menu himself in chalk on the side of the trailer, and you’ll also see an apt sign mentioning the inevitable meat coma.

The Food: Mueller’s reputation precedes him in more ways than one. Expectations are high, and despite an overcooked brisket, the food delivered. Find bountiful amounts of fatty and lean brisket, pork shoulder, pork ribs, beef ribs, spicy sausage, jalapeƱo boudin, and homemade potato salad, coleslaw, and Mueller’s signature cheesy squash casserole. Fancy? No. Hella good? Yes. (P.S. Bring your own Wet-Naps.)

The Crowd: Crowded is an understatement. Of course the soft opening was a party complete with a band, but expect a good showing on regular days too. Like at Franklin Barbecue, the line starts forming way before it opens at 10:30, and the trailer is only opened until they sell out (we suspect this will be sooner each day rather than later). The outdoor seating and fun atmosphere make it a great place to take out-of-towners and kids. For the adults, Mueller is continuing his tradition of handing out free beers while you wait in line. 

The Cost: Minimum; good meat isn’t cheap, but the barbecue won’t set you back too badly.

The Details: 2500 E. Sixth St.


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