Chef Shuffles in San Francisco

Aaron London is one of the many free agents slated to open a spot in SF

By Meesha Halm

There’s been a flurry of movement of late in the kitchens of the city’s top restaurants, which means both an influx of fresh new blood and the promise of some interesting new ventures down the pike. Over at RN74, long-time executive chef Jason Berthold has left and been replaced by Adam Sobel, another Michael Mina protégé who worked most recently at Bourbon Steak in D.C. According to the restaurant, the changing of the guard shouldn’t signal much of a change in the wine-centric restaurant’s menu, though Sobel has been named both executive chef and partner in the venture. As for Berthold, he is leaving to open his own restaurant in San Francisco.

In the Mission, West of Pecos has undergone a bigger shift. The restaurant’s opening chef Leo Varos, has left and with him goes much of his Santa Fe style offerings. He’s been replaced by August Schuman who previously worked at the owners other property Woodhouse Fish Company and has significantly simplified the Southwestern menu. 

Along with Berthold’s potential new indie venture, we’re waiting to see what materializes with Timothy Hollingsworth, the former French Laundry chef who is slated to leave in the spring to go solo, and Peter McNee, who recently left Poggio to open his own restaurant in San Francisco. At least we have some new intel on the forthcoming restaurant from free agent and 30-Under-30 recipient Aaron London (Ubuntu’s former top toque). According to San Francisco Magazine, London, who had been eyeing a Hayes Valley site has reportedly signed a lease on an undisclosed location in the Mission. Despite some very leading hints trotted out about the mystery spot - 30-seats, chef’s counter, open kitchen, former horse stable, small back courtyard - we’re gathering it’s not the old Saison space. Wherever it turns out to be, the restaurant isn’t expected to open before the summer.