2/27/2013 11:21:00 AM

Breathtaking Bread at Fork Restaurant

The bread basket could be considered the bastard child of modern restaurant food. In some places it’s been abandoned entirely - there’s not room on a table full of small plates, anyway. When it is served, it often goes unnoticed by diners who are captivated by more creative dishes. Chef Eli Kulp at Fork is turning that stereotype on its head with the new “meat, fish, veggies” bread course at Fork.

Kulp has been reinventing the bread program since he arrived at the Old City restaurant, working with pastry chef Jonathan Saliba and baker Sam Kincaid to turn it into something interesting. The team was already putting out housemade bialys with hay-infused cream cheese and Whiz-filled soft pretzel bites, but the new offering takes bread to the next level.

On the board are three very different breads, each accompanied by its own special butter. A pair of dry-aged beef brioche buns represent the meat part of the dish, and the rich flavor is accentuated by a spread of salted carrot butter. In the center is squid ink sponge bread, torn by hand and smacking of the ocean when spread with nori butter. For the veggie part of the well-rounded meal you get a nutty beet vollkornbrot, thick and chunky and even better with sweet beet butter.

We had the most fun mixing and matching the different breads and butters, since each is so distinct in texture and flavor - there are nine different combinations to try! You’ll get the chance to taste the new bread course if you opt for Fork’s “house menu,” the $65 prix fixe where guests select an app, main and dessert and also get a pasta for the table to share. We may not live by bread alone, but this one is pretty special (215-625-9425).


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