tweeted, and after dipping said chips into a cold foie gras mousse at Rittenhouse Tavern on Monday, we have to agree.
Both truffles and foie gras have become almost gratuitous, showing up on everything from burgers to fries to ice cream to mac ‘n’ cheese. But at the Four Chefs collaboration dinner, Nicholas Elmi served a dish that had us remembering why these luxuries became so sought after to begin with.
The crisp black shards of truffle weren’t overbearing, and neither was the smooth foie, though the custard was still incredibly rich. Helping even out the flavors were three variations on pomegranate, from slightly sour coulis to crunchy raw seeds to soft cubes of gelée. Dollops of goat milk cream rounded out the dish, which looked exactly like one of those fancy terrariums interior decorators like to place in avant garde windows.
The entire meal was memorable, since it included two dishes each from Elmi, Lee Styer (Fond), Christopher Kearse (Will) and Jon Cichon (Lacroix; his abalone is pictured below). With four chefs, there wasn’t any chance for your palate to get bored. All four chefs share a similar approach, but their individuality definitely comes through on the plate. There are two more of these collab dinners planned, at Fond in March and at Lacroix in April, so stay tuned for details.