2/28/2013 10:48:00 AM

Best Thing We Ate This Week: Coffee-Rubbed Pork Loin at Jones

Coffee is not just for drinking - it can also be a key ingredient in cooking. Joe Carroll’s BBQ rub at Fette Sau relies on coffee, for example, and Scott Schroeder uses coffee in the BBQ sauce at the South Philadelphia Tap Room. At the Capital Grille, one of the most popular steaks comes coated in Kona coffee grounds. During our Coffee Week hunt for more dishes that use java, we found a new winner: the coffee-rubbed pork loin at Jones.

A pork loin is coated with a coffee and chili rub, then cooked to a perfect tender pink (it’s served with a serrated knife but cuts easily with a fork). The coffee dust adds an earthy flavor, which is a good contrast to the fresh salsa scattered on top. It all helps keep the meat from being overpowered by the beans, which are extremely rich and meaty themselves, thanks to bits of charred pork in the mix.

The Chestnut Street restaurant is seemingly always busy, but the service is quick and professional anyway, as is the case at most Stephen Starr restaurants. The pork is relatively lean and kind of healthy, so follow it up with a peanut butter sundae for a decadent finish ($17.50; 215-223-5663).


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