2/14/2013 02:40:00 PM

Best Thing We Ate Last Night: Sexy Caramel Custard at Cliff's Edge


We always love the patio at Cliff's Edge, even when it's a bit chilly out. There are plenty of heat lamps, and if you get one of the banquettes strewn with pillows, it's downright cozy. Last night we had a chance to check out the new menu stylings of Vartan Abgaryan who took over for chef Ben Bailly (who coincidentally is now he chef at Abgaryan's old digs, Public Kitchen at the Roosevelt Hotel). Bailly did a good job of putting the restaurant on the map - it's long been considered a great Silver Lake hideaway, but the food just couldn't compete with the scene - but Abgaryan has amped things up even more.

The whole meal was pretty great, from the tete au cochon with cranberry moustarda and grainy mustard, to the oxtail gallette topped with a golden sunny-side up egg, grilled venison with beets, and the monkfish with squash risotto. Everything was balanced and went over well at the table. But then the dessert came. A silky, creamy caramel custard topped with whipped cream and sea salt. It's better than a budino, just lighter. Totally sexy. It's just the kind of thing you'd want on Valentine's Day. Eh, any day. Love in a bowl, people.

And PS: Wednesdays are the nights that Matt Biancaniello is testing out a few drinks at the bar. We had a Cynar and blood orange concoction that was really tasty, as was the cocktail he made with his own stinging nettle-infused gin. And while we know asking a bartender who forages for mugwort in the Angeles National Forest to make a simple gin martini is akin to asking a master sushi chef for a California roll, our Hendrick's martini was one of the best freakin' martinis we've ever had.

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