2/14/2013 10:54:00 AM

Best Thing We Ate Last Night: Calamarata at L'Apicio

We dropped by L'Apicio on a recent evening and the spot was packed, save for the little lounge area up front that has a smattering of couches and small tables. That was fine by us (and we expect it will be swell with anyone looking for a last-minute perch for Valentine's Day, so you can stop freaking out if that's your story). These tables are just big enough to accommodate a plate of pasta and a couple cocktails - we recommend the Calamarata, a squat, hollow, ring-shaped pasta that kind of resembles cuts of squid. Fittingly, the preparation involves a calamari ragu along with some chilies and garlic. It's a savory mix with a hint of the sea, and went great with the mineral-rich, un-oaked chardonnay the server recommended.

Even though the tabled are tiny, we'd be remiss if we told you to stop there. Mushroom polenta and garganelli with a lamb ragu were also winners. There may not be elbow room, but when these tasty plates are in front of you, you'll find a way to make it work.

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