Frej wowed foodies when it opened last year in the Kinfolk Studios space by Williamsburg's Wythe Hotel, but it never got the full NY Times treatment since it was essentially a pop-up that only operated a few nights a week. The space recently rebooted as Aska, a more refined Nordic eatery from chef Fredrik Berselius, and critic Pete Wells was impressed, awarding the joint two stars in this week's review. He has good things to say about the rotating fare, which takes inspiration from places like Copenhagen's Noma.
He's not so thrilled with some of the ingredients - according to him, the lichen "was best saved for cases of starvation," but overall it was positive. There's a little poetry in this review, as he also makes reference to "leafless birches" and "someone rolling in the snow, naked." To see what all of that's about, read the full review here.