1/28/2013 10:50:00 AM

The Best (Italian) Thing We Ate Last Night: Orecchiette at The Smith

The newly opened Lincoln Square outpost of The Smith isn't an Italian restaurant, the menu contains a grab bag of pretty much every cuisine imaginable. The crowds that mob this joint don't care about this lack of definition - the space is mobbed, and a waiter told us they can do over 800 covers a day (note: yowza). During a frigid weekend visit, the pasta section called out with the promise of comfort, and a simple bowl of orecchiette provided just that. The hearty portion was prepared with pickled chilies, chicken sausage and broccoli and dusted with cheese. While it's not nearly as fancy as some of the other options in the neighborhood (Marea, A Voce) - and no one is going to give the dish an award for authenticity - it did get the prize for being just what we wanted before catching a flick at the nearby cinema.

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