|Pappardelle, speck, beets and sage at Erbaluce|
His family is from Alessandria in Piemonte, just over the border of Lombardia.
“I cook the opposite of the way most chefs are trained,” Draghi told us. “Most cooks are trained in classical French," which we all know means healthy doses of cream and butter in many sauces. “When cooks come into my kitchen, they say, ‘It’s radical’, the way I cook.”
“I cook in the Italian vernacular,” says Draghi. A good example? A dish he has on the menu that’s pappardelle with speck, sage and beets.
He pan fries the speck (smoked prosciutto), tosses in sage, adds beet greens and then diced roasted beets, and tosses it all with housemade pappardelle. It’s a dish from Trentino, a northwest province of Italy.
“People who go to northern Italy to ski, they’d recognize this combination.” We think this calls for us to schedule a trip soon to make sure this is accurate...