Each delicious dinner begins with a shower of antipasti, which almost always includes swoon worthy, fresh rich burrata. There’s usually a crostini, made with the superlative housemade country breads. When we visited last week, it was topped with an airy codfish puree. A few slices of smoked duck breast added a meaty note, followed by a refreshing, crisp salad. Finally, panelle, a Sicilian chickpea fritter, exemplified what great fried food is all about - rich, crunchy and oozing flavor.
What follows: a housemade pasta or soup, a choice of entree (we love the squab), cheese and dessert, along with terrific wines that Pastan chooses from his travels on the West Coast and in Italy. It’s so good that we don’t wait for an occasion, but sometimes simply decide to give ourselves a treat (2029 P St. NW; 202-872-1180).