12/12/2012 10:21:00 AM

The Best Thing We Ate Last Night: Chicken Wings at Yusho

Matthias Merges, why do you tease us with your tender chicken wings? Do you really have to serve them with that bonito salt, which is basically fishy fairy dust. Why are there only two pieces of chicken with that slight crispy skin on a stick? Why can’t we order them by the dozen and have them served in a bucket? Do you insist on the ceramic china? Maybe it has something to do with spending all that time in Charlie Trotter’s kitchen, but we would gladly devour these by the fistful. How many chicken wings do we need to buy before you throw in two more for free? Because we could have filled the table with those gourmet nuggets.

Chef, we don’t think you are a bully, we think you are a genius who has worked wonders with Japanese-style small plates at Yusho. We are just a bit bitter that we couldn’t eat ourselves into a chicken coma last night. And it's not just us, we think we're speaking for all the people who have an uncomfortable obsession with juicy chicken. Someone had to say something. 


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