|Beef Deckle "Toro" at Commerce|
Chef Harold Moore’s latest menu addition, beef deckle "toro," is a true umami bomb: small cuts of the rib eye “cap,” seared rare, on a bed of meaty charred mushrooms, with a gingery, spicy, salty ponzu opening up every tastebud. Tiny sea beans add the slightest contrast of texture while the deckle, a flavorful but usually fatty and tough cut, is wondrously tender. It’s a whole lot of flavor in one appetizer ($18), highlighting Moore’s vast breadth as a chef on a contemporary American menu that dabbles in French, Italian and Asian flavors.
Other seasonal additions to watch out for on Commerce’s menu: delicate short rib ravioli with purslane and chanterelles, delicately rolled and twisted at the ends like a pasta candy ($28); and a hearty venison loin with parsnip puree, Brussels sprouts and crisp pear salad ($32).