12/11/2012 04:45:00 PM

How a Burger and Fries Should Be…Covered in Cheese

Edzo’s, the Evanston burger-joint with a cult-like following, opened their first city location in Lincoln Park. Today was their first day of serving griddles patties and hand-cut fries, so we swung by to grab both of those things along with a milkshake to wash it down. Now, we need to take a nap and then spend at least three hours at the gym. But was the feast of fat worth the calories?

Let’s break this lunch down bite by bite. We recommend both starting and ending with a milkshake, they are served with whipped cream and a cherry along with a sidecar in the metal mixing glass. They offer the standard vanilla and chocolate in addition to more unique flavor such as Nutella, maple and coffee. These thick, but not overly sweet, shakes are prefect for washing down the mountain of grease that follows.


Next, on to some fries - a necessity at every meal. Split one order between two people. Once again, they serve the hang cut fries traditional style or spice things up with chili, truffle salt, buffalo sauce, Italian beef gravy, and pretty much any sinfully delicious savory topping one can imagine. We chowed down of the hearty slices of deep friend potato covered with Merkt’s cheese sauce. The sharp cheddar tastes like cheese, not processed yellow paste, and what more can one ask on hand-cut fries than crispy ends with skin?

Finally, and most importantly, it’s time to consider the burger. Unlike the over-the-top burger craze invading Chicago, this burger is thin. After being smashed to about a centimeter thick on a sizzling hot griddle its topped with ketchup, mustard, pickle and an onion. Cheese and other toppings as well as extra beef patties are extra. It’s served on a soft bun and overall this tastes like, well, a burger – simple, juicy and flavorful (with the flavor of meat, not jalapeno poppers and onion rings on pretzel bun).

Will Edzo’s make it into our regular rotation? Probably not, because we can’t afford the extra pounds. But between the an old-school burger, fries and shake plus its nostalgic décor of retro signs on bright yellow walls, it is difficult to deny.

2218 N. Lincoln Ave.

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