Mile End, Fort Reno Provisions, Fletcher's) with the brick-and-mortar BrisketTown on Bedford in Williamsburg. And judging by the long line of hungry diners waiting for a taste when we stopped by, he's got some serious meaty mojo going on. Here's what to know before you go.
Pre-order if you plan on getting there before 6:30 PM.
For reasons having to do with the restaurant's supply of LaFrieda beef, you'll need to to pre-order your meat if you plan on stopping by from 6-6:30 PM. After that, you can just order from the counter, and the restaurant stays open until the meat runs out.
Prepare to wait after 6:30.
As mentioned, the line was practically to the door when we got there at 7 PM. Delaney himself cuts your meat order at the counter, and while he's a charmingly chatty guy, the line doesn't exactly whiz by. Hopefully, once the liquor licence arrives, you'll be able to grab a beer while waiting. Until then, pass the time by counting all the guys with extremely bushy facial hair - what is this, Decembeard?!
Be brave about getting a seat.
Seating's a bit tricky - after you get your order, you'll need to wait around until one of the tables in the smallish rooms frees up. We're not sure what the official policy is on having one person grab a table while the other person waits in line, but we did see some stink-eye cast toward those who attempted it.
The brisket lives up to the hype, a heavenly balance of perfectly marbled meat, caramely char and oak-smoked flavor. Pork ribs were plump and juicy, although it felt strange not to have any sauce with them, and there's a seriously spectacular potato salad on offer with big chunks of bacon. Finally, they passed us some tasty free pie slices, which they were trying out for the first day. The bill came to $81 for a party of five - not bad - and we were so full we pretty much waddled out the door.
If you don't like crowds, head to a nearby bar.
If you're not up for braving the Thunderdome-esque seating situation, get your order to go and take it to a nearby food-friendly watering hole like East River Bar.
359 Bedford Ave.; 718-701-8909