11/05/2012 10:26:00 AM

Steel & Rye Opens in Lower Mills

Photo  Naomi Kooker
Just before 4:30 PM on Sunday evening, a party of seven - both kids and adults - comes through the door of Steel & Rye in the Lower Mills section of Milton. “You’re our first real guests!” says Dan Kerrigan, co-owner and manager. And with that, the party is soon seated, marking the opening of this New American restaurant in a burgeoning section of Milton on the Dorchester line.

Hanging lights, area rugs, red chairs, plants and reclaimed wood warm the cavernous warehouse space with cement floors and an open ceiling. (The 1940’s building once housed ambulances.) The 150 seats are generously dispersed among three dining areas - a long wooden bar/lounge on one side and booth seating on the other both have views of the glass-enclosed wine room at the back of the restaurant, as well as the open kitchen where Chris Parsons (formerly Parsons Table, Catch), co-owner and executive chef, presides over his beloved Molteni stove. A quieter dining area at the front of the restaurant is warmed by more wood, area rugs and artwork. A private dining room in the back abuts the wine room.

True to form and style, Parsons has created a menu that's an ode to seasonality and simplicity, with divisions such as Snacks (pickled quail eggs), Appetizers (Blue Hubbard squash soup), Shells (raw bar and shellfish items), From the Gristmill (flatbread pizza, pastas, polenta and risotto, with a choice of small or large portions) and six Main Courses (Parsons’ signature scallops with celery root, pineapple, braised beef ravioli and yellow curry). Entree prices run $18-$32. Craft cocktails, more than a dozen wines by the glass, and craft beers on tap and bottles are part of the bar program.

Steel & Rye is open seven days for dinner.

95 Eliot St., Milton; 617-690-2787

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