11/28/2012 10:43:00 AM

Pete Wells Drops Two Stars on Dirt Candy

Image via Flickr/roboppy
By Kelly Dobkin
Pete Wells dropped two stars on Amanda Cohen's four-year-old sliver-sized vegetarian eatery Dirt Candy last night. He's mostly delighted with what he finds:

Eating at Dirt Candy can be like going to a child’s birthday party in a country where all the children love vegetables. Eggplant tiramis├╣, with layers of rosemary lady fingers sandwiching a sweet mascarpone whipped with grilled eggplant, sounds like a dare: daring you to try it, daring you to like it. While you consider your options, a server brings the final element of the dish, a white frizz of cotton candy with a startlingly pure and piney taste of rosemary. It lifts up the eggplant, the dessert and the party.

Check out the full review here.


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