11/21/2012 10:29:00 AM

M. Wells Dinette Gets Two Stars From NY Times

When people look a back at the tenure of NY Times critic Pete Wells, they'll likely group his reviews into the pre- and post Guy Fieri takedown eras. Today marks the beginning of the latter, as the critic put down his poison pen and awarded two stars to another non-traditional venue, the M. Wells Dinette in Long Island City's P.S. 1. Museum. He lauds Hugue Dufor's focus on excess, singing the praises the off-cuts centric style of cooking that has been slightly-scaled down since the original M. Wells shuttered due to a rent increase. Even uses lumberjack metaphors, behold:

"A native of Quebec, Mr. Dufour learned his blithe disregard for moderation while cooking at Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, where he was also the pastry chef and an owner. Most of the time, his celebration of the unbridled joy of eating like a lumberjack is so convincing that I’d be prepared to split cordwood all day just to earn the right to pull up a chair."

Good for this dinette, but we suspect that everyone is still going to be talking about the sudden sympathy they feel for a certain fellow with frosted tips for at least another week or so. Read the full review here.

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