11/05/2012 01:09:00 PM

Best Thing We Ate: Squid Salad At Local's Corner

After a week of chowing down of burgers in pursuit of this week's burger coverage, we were craving something other than meat. We found what we were looking for at Local's Corner, the locavore-leaning seafood-centric sidekick of Local Mission Eatery. The Lilliputian 30-seat Victoriana-looking corner cafe is just a slip of a place, with six or so marble tables and a food counter overlooking the kitchen where the two chefs and a prep cook turn out Tweet-worthy dishes using just one convection oven and a few induction burners and a circulator. The compact menu features a rotating slate of oysters on the half shell, a dozen of mostly seafood-based small plates, plus a token beef tartare and a few full-sized fish entrees. Despite the cramped quarters, the kitchen seems to transcend rather than be hampered but its limited capacity, producing some of the most imaginative, flavorful food in the city.

Mostly everything is locally sourced or made in house, as in the case the spicy fermented cabbage and house-made yogurt featured in a knock-out cauliflower dish, or the mini loaves of multigrain bread. But our favorite dish of the night was this squid salad, a combination of squid from Monterey and Mendocino, lightly poached until just tender, interspersed with chunks of roasted kuri squash and garnished with roasted fennel, chili aioli, sea lettuces and housemade rice crackers.

Local's Corner is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday and breakfast and lunch on Sunday, offering diners plenty of opportunity to check it out. 2500 Bryant St, 415-800-7945.

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