Best Thing We Ate Last Night: Lamb Belly at Valanni

Story and Photo by Danya Henninger

Taking advantage of the Indian summer weather, we snagged an outside table at Gayborhood go-to Valanni last night, but were just a bit too early to partake in the special third Thursday “brunch after dark” menu. Any disappointment disappeared entirely after digging into a plate of chef John Strain’s lamb belly. Similar to pork belly (and sometimes referred to as “lamb breast”), a hefty slab of braised and roasted meat sat atop a toothy risotto of farro, crowned with a handful of crispy Brussels sprout leaves. The top layer of lamb pulled apart into meaty strands, causing the rich, fatty strip below to meld with the risotto for a full-flavored bite. When the temps do drop, get this dish to warm your insides, ideally helped along by a Loaded Gun cocktail made with Bulleit bourbon and brandied cherries.