9/27/2012 05:48:00 PM

Taste Test: Fast Pies at PizzaRev

Since it's Fast Food Week here, we thought we should give a new "fast" concept a try. PizzaRev isn't your typical fast food joint, but the process is very Subway or Chipotle. In fact, the new Studio City location feels more like the fast-casual Mexican chain in design (earth tones, tables and lots of seating) than anything. And ordering is just like filling a burrito or sub - pick your dough, sauce, cheese and as many meat and vegetable toppings as you like. You move down the line and watch the staffers pile it all on, and then into the 900-degree oven it goes. A few minutes later - about four or five - the 'za comes out, they call your name and it's yours. All told, you get your food in less than 10 minutes, and no matter how many toppings you put on that bad boy, it's only $7.95. But how does it stack up?

The crust here - kind of cracker-like around the edges, and somehow shiny on the bottom - is simply a vehicle for a lot of toppings. It's super thin, probably because there's one person pressing each dough ball like a tortilla in a giant machine, and not much flavor. The tomato sauce is decent, and no matter how many toppings you get - ours was mozzarella, ricotta, artichoke hearts, kalamata olives, basil and sausage because we could - the staff seems pretty good about knowing how much of each thing should be there. Otherwise you just won't be able to eat it; no way that crust can hold too much without flopping.

Is this fast food? Yes, it's decent pizza fast. It's to you in under 10 minutes, and parking is a breeze in back. You can even order it ahead of time for pick-up. We're strongly in the camp that even bad pizza is good pizza, but this is better than that. No use in putting it up against heavy hitters like Mozza or even 800 Degrees, a similar concept with far superior pizza. This isn't that. This pizza is something you can see in every mall across America, or at least those with Bed, Bath & Beyond, Old Navy and Best Buy. You know, right next to the Chipotle.

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