9/24/2012 11:30:00 AM

Percy Street Barbecue Adds a Brisket Burger

The new burger on the menu at Percy Street Barbecue is fast food in more ways than one. First, this is no pretentious, gourmet sandwich with lots of extras. It’s in the style of the Mickey D’s original, with just beef, cheese, pickles and onions on the bun. Second, just like everything else at this South Street BBQ stop, the burger arrives at your table extremely quickly - chef Erin O’Shea runs a tight ship, and many of the dishes require nothing more than slicing (all the work is done beforehand, during a long smoke).

Lastly, the burger is so succulent that it goes fast, bite after easy-eating bite. Because it’s made with the house brisket, which is brined before its turn in the smoker, the house-ground patty is extremely soft, even when cooked to a perfect medium. Combine that with a fluffy, untoasted bun, pickles that are just between sweet and sour, and a thick slice of vidalia onion, you have a full-size sandwich that can be downed in just a few minutes. It’s like a cross between a pulled pork slider and a fancy steak tartare, especially when drizzled with a swirl of house BBQ sauce. Bonus: unlike many fast foods, this dish left us full, but with none of that “Ugh, I just ate a burger” afterburn ($11; 215-625-8510).

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