Molteni Magic: Hot Stuff Stove Behind Steel & Rye's Menu

Chris Parsons showing off his Molteni stove at soon-to-open Steel & Rye

By Naomi Kooker

Chris Parsons, chef and co-owner of soon-to-open Steel & Rye in Milton, has never owned a Ferrari (yet), but he likens his new-used Molteni stove to that of the Italian luxury sports car. After all, his luxury-brand, custom-made stove has all the bells and whistles: flattop, gas burners, fryer, grill, la plancha, Salamander, even a wok.

“You can feel it when you’re working with it,” he says of the heft and style of the Molteni, a brand used by many world-class chefs, including Alain Ducasse. Only a handful of Boston chefs, such as Barbara Lynch (Menton), work with the stove made in France.

The Molteni, which Parsons bought second-hand on eBay, has some pedigree. It was originally owned by and custom-made for James Beard Award-winning chef Norman van Aken, who is often referred to as the father of fusion or New World cuisine - hence the wok and la plancha.

Parsons touts the flattop style of the Molteni with graduated heat - some areas are hotter than others, so the cooks can place their pans according to what they need during the cooking process.

One dish we know will come from the Molteni: roasted scallops with celeriac (celery root puree), pineapple and braised short-rib ravioli, a greatest hit from Parsons’ days at Catch. You’ll just have to wait.