Feast Fodder: Jasper Shen of Aviary on the Challenges of Co-Cheffing

By Kathleen Squires, Photo by Hernan F. Rodriguez

Though cooperative cooking seems oh-so-very Portland, the trio behind the PDX French/Asian eatery Aviary actually met and migrated together from NYC, with cumulative experiences that include Aquavit, Annisa, 5 Ninth, and Jean Georges. Co-chefs Jasper Shen, Sarah Pliner and Kat Whitehead’s mutual support system especially came in handy when a fire closed Aviary down just six months after their debut. The trio reopened to ample accolades however, and have since firmly established themselves as the newcomers to watch in the City of Roses. While preparing rockfish and shrimp balls with sweet soy sauce at the Feast Portland Night Market event, we talked with co-chef and co-owner Jasper Shen.

Zagat: Are three chefs better than one?

Sometimes it is, sometimes it ain’t. It’s great because we all trust each other a lot so it’s good to split responsibility so you don’t always feel overwhelmed and there is someone right next to you who you trust to get things done. But to be honest, sometimes it is a struggle to have three different people, all strong-willed, trying to make it happen. But when things get hard it’s great to have the support there with you. 

Zagat: Does co-cheffing make it easier to have a social life?

No. The restaurant has ruined the social lives of three chefs, not just one. 

Zagat: What do you feel each of you bring to the kitchen?

We all have different specialties and we all have different personalities, so we cover a lot of bases. My specialty is that I’m generally good with people and I’m friendly, so I can step out of the kitchen and work the front of the house sometimes. It’s good to have someone who is the “face” get out there and talk to people. Kat’s specialty is pastry, and Sarah is one of the most talented, creative people I’ve ever worked with - from her basic ability to cook to her ideas about flavor.

Zagat: So, how many cooks does it really take to spoil the broth, then?

It depends on the personalities involved. You can have a lot of cooks, but if they all understand their role, it can work. It’s a bad metaphor, but it’s like a sports team. Think of a basketball team - if you get a team of role players, you are going to do great things without one person taking charge of everything.