After a lightning-fast renovation, the space in the Limelight Marketplace that used to house Crossbar is now Chateau Cherbuliez, a French-inspired getaway that has done away with all the pseudo-gothic trappings and replaced them with bottles of wine, simple exposed brick and a chill outdoor garden that seems totally intimate even though it's a stones throw away from street. Although the changeover was fast, service in the garden last night went off without a hitch - the place is a well-oiled machine that runs on rosé. Bottles of the pink-hued vino (along with plenty of Champagne) are placed strategically around the space - yes, that's a magnum hidden in the bushes, ready to remind you that you should order another bottle as soon as yours runs dry (the joint is being run by the Koch brothers - do you expect anyone here not to have a glass in their hand?).
The menu doesn't try to be too innovative, featuring simple, alfresco-friendly fare that pairs really well with your bottle (and your second bottle, and the third). The dollop of ricotta sorbet on a salad of heirloom tomatoes was a really nice touch, but our favorite dish was a simple hamachi crudo with fennel, cucumber and shiso. Enjoying the light and fresh dish with a glass of wine in the outdoor garden made us forget that Labor Day is only a few quick weeks away.
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