8/03/2012 03:16:00 PM

The Best Thing We Ate Last Night: Ricotta Gnudi at Dovetail

Given its quiet UWS locale, John Fraser's Dovetail might not seem like an obvious choice for Downtown dwellers, but we're here to remind you - it delivers. Last night we indulged in the seven-course Chef's Tasting menu, and were instantly reminded why What Happens When was one of the buzziest restaurants of 2011. While chef Fraser has laid low since its closing (though recent rumors suggest a possible concept in the Standard East Village), he certainly hasn't been slacking off. Since our last visit, the dining room has undergone changes to modernize its look (think mirrored wall fixtures, steel finishings to the columns), and the menu offers increased flexibility, ranging from à la carte options, an $85 four-course prix fixe or seven-course vegetable tasting, Sunday suppers and the aforementioned Chef's Tasting.

There were many favorites throughout the evening (honorable mention goes to the lobster and scallop dish), but the ricotta gnudi truly stood out. Incredibly pillowy and creamy, the gnudi were thoughtfully complemented by crisp broccoli, parsley root and a savory broth containing truffles. Based on the initial description it may sound like a fall/winter dish, but we assure you, it's light enough to eat year-round, and we'd be happy to do it. 

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