8/27/2012 07:00:00 PM

Joyce Goldstein Cries "What Ever Happened to Flavor First?"

Joyce Goldstein knows a few things about California cuisine. The Chez Panisse alum and veteran cookbook author's own long-running Cal-Mediterranean Square One restaurant was considered pretty cutting edge back in the day for her insistence on preparing everything from scratch daily. But what does she think of the latest developments in California cookery in today’s local hip restaurants? In the first of a new Sunday column penned for the San Francisco Chronicle, not much.

In her article, the self-described "geezer" Goldstein rips into the new posse of farm-to-foam restaurants (aka Tweezer Food) that seem to ignore the primary tenet “flavor first” in a quest to present increasingly similar looking post-modern plates of food that splattered with all “those damn dots of sauce.” She writes, “there used to be a joke that there was a river of tomato sauce running under the city that fed all our Italian restaurants. Now I envisage an underground team of tiny elves with tweezers, carefully placing tiny little pieces of food in regimented lines across plates all over the country." Read the complete article here. With a debut column like this, we’re looking forward to reading Goldstein’s future musings.


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