8/22/2012 02:59:00 PM

New Oakland Doughnut Shop Doesn't Offer Bacon But Keep Reading Anyway

Doughnut Dolly's custom-filled cream donuts
Say hello to Doughnut Dolly, this new artisan filled-to-order-donut shop that just popped up in an Oakland back alley located near foodie heavyweights Pizzaiolo and Bakesale Betty. Like its neighbors, the bakery (named for the American Red Cross volunteers who handed out donuts and coffee to the enlisted men during World War I) has already built up some serious cred, having popped up at various Oakland ventures before opening.

But don’t bother looking for the Bacon Brittle or Szechuan Pepper Swirl - owner Hannah Hoffman eschews oddball flavor combinations for comforting, custardy fillings such as a vanilla bean crème fraîche (aka "Naughty Cream"), lemon curd, seasonal jam, Mexican chocolate and hazelnut chocolate cream which she fills to order a la Beard Papa's or the Doughnut Plant in NYC. Hoffman makes everything that goes into her yeast-raised donuts ($3 a pop) from scratch except for the fruit filling, which she sources from local jam juggernauts such as Oakland Dried Goods, Inna Jam and Kensington Market Donuts.

Complimenting the doughy goodness is a slate of drinks to wash it all down such as Jittery John's New Orleans-style cold-brewed iced coffee, Richmond-based Catahoula Coffee Co. drip hot coffee, milk and natural sodas. The quick-service storefront conjures up the look of an old-fashioned Parisian bakery with black-and-white-tiles, green- and yellow-striped walls, swags of lights and walnut-and-marble counter tops. Within a week or so, they'll be a dozen tables and chairs for sidewalk seating.

Like a fine doughnut, the offerings and hours of operation are short but sweet: only four doughnut flavors are offered per day (plus a plain option), and it’s only open Wednesday-Sunday, 8 AM-3 PM (at least for now). Cash only.

Doughnut Dolly: 82 B 49th Ave; Oakland, 510-338-6738


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