Reynard inside the new Wythe Hotel, the restaurant brought to you by the Marlow & Sons team. (By the way, this review calls the place "Reynard" but the restaurant website says "Reynards" - which one is it?)
He starts this one with one doozy of a wacky lede that compares veggies with actors: "Among summer vegetables, okra is not a heartthrob. If green zebra tomatoes and white nectarines are the romantic leads, the part of okra is a cameo played by Willem Dafoe."
Wells proceeds to wax on about okra and manages to touch on the other ingredients featured at the eatery as well. He seemed to enjoy much of what he tasted but noted that many dishes missed the mark; he blames the daily menu change as a factor detracting form the food's execution. He also notes that Reynard is much more self-conscious than its sister restaurants: "Diner and Marlow & Sons have their off nights, too, but somehow their small scale and obvious eccentricity conspire so that it hardly matters. Reynard feels more serious and self-conscious, as if trying to prove that Williamsburg has come of age." Read the full review here.