No Lone Star for Hill Country: Pete Wells Gives it Two

By Kathleen Squires

Pete Wells gives a Texas two-star to five year-old barbecue joint Hill Country while lauding the joys of eating off “greasy" butcher paper:

“Moist brisket on greasy paper is not the only reason to eat at Hill Country, but it’s a convincing one. The term ‘moist brisket’ is the restaurant’s euphemism for the deckle and tip of the brisket, upholstered in fat that will slowly render and baste the meat during the 13 or 14 hours it spends in the smoker. Carved just before serving, the meat is juicy throughout, but the parts that really get me going are the blackened edges that give way to a mahogany-tinted quarter-inch or so of smoky borderland between crust and interior.”

That mouth-watering description alone is enough to make brisket the next pulled pork.