7/13/2012 04:00:00 PM

Best Thing We Ate Last Night: Whole Fish Ceviche at Water Grill

If you haven't been by the new Water Grill yet, you're in for a surprise. The space is more open and casual, and the vibe is much more everyday. You may still need an expense account to eat there, but you don't need the suit. And although the raw bar is still one of the best in town, there's a new chef (Damon Gordon) and menu featuring a wide variety of seafood from across the globe. When you go, order one of the whole fish, which is priced by the pound but served in a variety of ways. We tried the pink sea bream, a nice snapper with a little sweeter flesh, served as ceviche. It's prepared to order - wonderfully citrusy with just a tiny kick of spice - and comes gorgeously arranged on the plate as the body with the head and tail at both ends. Hey, at least you can see how clear the eye is, the telltale sign of freshness. Water Grill is located at 544 South Grand Avenue.

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