Best Thing We Ate Last Night: Veal Flank Steak at Kris

Story and Photo by Danya Henninger

Though in our confused youth we spent a dozen years as a vegetarian, these days our attitude is closer to the more meat, the merrier. That said, we’ve never really understood the draw of veal. Until last night. At Kris, the recently-opened, more casual incarnation of Kristian Leuzzi’s South Philly dining room, we demolished a dish that gave us new appreciation for the not-yet-beef.

Chef Gregory Dooner takes a flank - a stomach cut known for being relatively tough - and marinates it for a day to infuse flavors that rise to the surface after the steak’s brief sear on the grill. Totally tender and delicate, yet full of meaty gusto, the veal is enhanced by a rich jus, along with a modicum of snappy lentils, sautéed mushroom and escarole and charred artichoke hearts. Within less time than we care to share, our entire plate was scraped clean. Veal - and Kris - we think we’re in love ($23; 215-468-0104).