First Look at Donostia: Basque Tapas in Marylebone

By Claire Coleman

Londoners' love of Spanish small plates shows no sign of waning, so a new Marylebone spot that adds to the options can only be welcome. Donostia, named after the Basque name for San Sebastian, is the baby of wine importers Nemanja Borjanovic and Melody Adams, who first discovered the area around three years ago.

They've brought in Tomasz Baranski, former head chef at Barrafina, to create a Basque menu that showcases familiar tapas - Iberico ham, tortilla, boquerones, croquetas - alongside more unususal options like cod cheeks cooked in classic pil-pil fashion (in an almost gelatinous, oily, garlic liquid) and pork fillet with a romesco sauce.

With its white wooden walls, the small, 40-seat space is very simple - it's obvious the focus is supposed to be on the food. An open kitchen takes centre stage, and bar seating allows you to watch your meal being prepared while you sample a wine list that's been cleverly curated and includes some interesting options like txakoli, a gently sparkling Basque speciality that's low in alcohol.

While bookings can be made for the tables, the 10 stools at the bar are reserved for walk-ins. The night we stopped by, every seat in the house was full with an interesting and diverse crowd - from a family group sharing a big table at the back to young couples at the bar and pairs of older ladies who look like the Marylebone sort who lunch.

10 Seymour Pl., W1H 7ND; 020 3620 1845; www.donostia.co.uk