As you recall, chef Thomas McNaughton and chef de cuisine Matthew Sigler (who were just crowned the Princes of Pork at last month’s Cochon 555 SF competition) plan to offer a full-range of cured meats, pates, salads and housemade pastas sold by the pound, along with fresh cheeses and fancy meat-centric sandwiches built on house-baked breads. Opening day offerings were a bit more scaled back than that: the petite shop's rustic concrete walls were lined with top-notch larder - oils, jams, fromage, chips and whatnot - though, aside from three fresh cheeses, sourced mostly from well-established vendors. (Eventually, they hope to stock more of their own items.) The front deli cases also offered a few salads such as marinated beets and mackerel en saoer, housemade pâtés and sausages, and imported cheeses. All of which can be washed down with coffee drinks, beer, wine and imported sodas and fancy water.
We opted to choose from one of three blackboard sandwich offerings (eventually there'll be more), eschewing the tempting trumpet, maitake and fromage de meaux vegetarian option for roast beef-and-cheese served on a pretzel roll ($11). It's elevated with a smear of earthy fonduta cheese and compote of chopped dill pickles glazing the freshly baked roll, which had the perfect balance of crisp exterior and soft inside.
The crew plans to roll out more elaborate cheese and salumi boards, yogurt parfaits made with their own fresh yogurt and honey, and additional sandwich options in the coming days. Expect to see their coveted Flour + Water pasta (both fresh sheets and extruded options such as porcini strozzapreti and aleppo pepper rigatoni) for sale in a few weeks.
Check out the opening-day menu and the forthcoming fully realized menu.
3000 20th Street; 415-826-2998; currently open daily from 9 AM-7 PM
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