6/19/2012 04:10:00 PM

8 Farewell to Foie Dinners Around LA

Petrossian's foie and berry gazpacho/Julie Wolfson
In case you've been living under a duck wing, the production and sale of foie gras will be banned in California as of July 1. This has caused an uproar in the culinary community, especially with chefs who believe there are more problems with industrialized farming than with small farmers raising and stuffing ducks for our gustatory pleasure (find out more about C.H.E.F.S. here). The result: a spate of special menus and dinners throughout LA, some in unlikely places.

Cafe del Rey
On Wednesday, June 20, Cafe del Rey pairs a four-course foie gras menu with Buoncristiani Family wines. Dishes include: cardamom-roasted squab with seared foie gras; beef carpaccio with Buoncristiani O.P.C.-poached foie gras, shaved Italian truffles and baby arugula; rack of lamb with foie gras ravioli, black figs, baby morel mushrooms and fig gastrique; and foie gras ice cream. The dinner and pairing costs $110 and starts at 6:30 PM (4451 Admiralty Way; 310-823-639).

Chef Niki Nakayama features a seven-course foie gras kaiseki menu throughout the month of June, highlighting various cooking methods of foie gras paired with Japanese flavors. While the menu, like all of her menus, might change day to day, you could find foie gras over tofu, served with egg custard and truffles, or with amberjack sashimi. Cost is $180 per person, and reservations are strongly recommended (3455 Overland Ave.; 310-836-6252).

The West Hollywood restaurant and gourmet shop is known for its caviar, but it's also known for its foie gras, which executive chef Giselle Wellman is putting to good use throughout June. A five-course menu includes dishes like armagnac-poached foie with summer berry gazpacho; asparagus salad with black summer truffles and foie gras ravioli; seared foie with cherries and brioche crisps; prime flat iron steak with foie and Fresno chiles; and foie gras ice cream. Cost is $100 per person, or $150 with wine pairings (321 N. Robertson Blvd.; 310-271-0576).

Josiah Citrin has been very vocal about the right to serve foie gras, and his "Foie for All" menu is just the beginning. The eight-course menu features the delicacy in myriad ways, including seared, stuffed in agnolotti, truffled, whipped, cured and sweetened. The feast costs $185 per person and is offered throughout June (1104 Wilshire Blvd.; 310-395-0881).

Beer Belly
The Koreatown gastropub will do its own version of a foie gras sendoff with specials on June 30. Menu details are still in the works, but if pork-belly chips, catfish and chips, or fried Oreos are any inclination, expect something fun and well paired with craft beer (532 S. Western Ave.; 213-387-2337).

We expect Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo's original Fairfax restaurant might add a few more foie dishes before time runs out, but we say just get in there and have the foie gras biscuit with sweet sausage gravy, and the foie loco moco while you can. That's an order (435 N. Fairfax Ave.; 323-782-9225).

Lazy Ox
And for a change of pace, LO's new chef, Perfecto Rocher, will feature all sorts of other liver dishes - beef, rabbit, monkfish, pork, chicken - to show that, hey, maybe we don't need foie gras (we do, from both a personal and political standpoint). On June 29 and 30, stop for dishes like corn soup with crispy pork liver, braised beer octopus with monkfish liver, and crispy rabbit livers with hearts of palm and dandelion greens, from a special à la carte menu (241 S. San Pedro St.; 213-626-5299).

1 comment :

  1. Well to twist a phrase, "We'll always have Vegas."